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The whole unit is rubber dipped in a spiffy blue colored material to protect its components and to insulate it electrically.
It is important that you have voltage when the key is on AND when cranking. You set a threshold, any incoming signal below it produces a 0 v output, and anything above it produces a 1. The simplest setup is a single wire, which is the signal wire and the sensor get’s its ground from the exhaust pipe. If it is a product you have purchased, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. A logical format makes the tuning process more like science and less like a mystical black art.
Since I haven’t tried it, I cannot guarantee results. A single-pot version would actually look like this:. To test the voltage that the computer is receiving, plug your red meter lead into the EFIE’s red test port, and attach your black meter lead to ground. On the flip side, as you lean out the AFR, it takes longer to burn across the leaner mixture.
The amount of change to the signal has to be easily adjustable to accommodate the different types of efficiency devices that are available.
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Simply making combustion more efficient these days isn’t enough. It is next to impossible to give you an exact road map for mileage tuning, like “if you have a Mercedes Benzmodel so-and-so, then this is exactly what you need to do”. The MAP Sensor is part of the car, while the enhancer is just that, an enhancer that we add to the car in order to fine-tuning the MAP signal.
Notice I didn’t say d1 ohms. Yes, this article is very long. What happens is, sometimes the light comes on because the ECU detects “unusual activity” in terms of performance.
The range adjustment feature has been discontinued for single EFIE models. Adjustments to the trim screw can change the EFIE’s voltage correction by tiny amounts; a millivolt or 2 0. Oxygen sensors for many years were of a single type. If you’re a hobbyist and want to know the ins and outs of the device intimately, and take pleasure in building a project such as this, then by all means go for it.
Visit Our Documents Page. Therefore the function has been discontinued.
As the vehicles became more complex, there was less tuning required for optimal performance and mileage. If you have basic training in electronics and can solder parts together, you can build this device in one afternoon.
The average vehicle will use something like a 3. This does not mean that your vehicle is malfunctioning. At the top end you have to wait for many minutes to see if it is at it’s maximum voltage, or, if you rush it, you may turn the screw too many times and damage the potentiometer.
Try the following sources: When dealing with the intricate jungle of ECUs, sensors and all of that, you must use proper factory information. The bulk of the change will occur after the first minute, but if you have a sensitive meter, you will see it minutely increase for up to 10 minutes. Simply cut the ground wire going to the sensor, then add a small amount of resistance. Raising spring pressure will lower lean-out limits.
Mike Thanks a lot for your post. Your reply will most likely be from me, and I answer up there quite quickly. A high vacuum reading will give a low voltage signal. Depending on the vehicle you’re experimenting with, the check engine light may come on. The circuit board series and the Basic series are the same. Most of the vehicles I’ve modified have liked the 7 to 18 ohm range. If you have a near ambient reading no or large value resistorreduce parallel resistance to retard timing.
In a practical sense though, you should never need to take these last 2 readings, unless you suspect that the sensor is malfunctioning. Sometimes it’s hard to find what type and number of sensors your vehicle has.
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Most computers will see millivolts from the EFIE, plus the sensor’s voltage as high all the time. Now I am curious as to its schematic as well. Usually the vehicle runs perfectly fine, no codes are set, and the stock mileage is typical for that type of vehicle. Since it has a new performance range with HHO, chances are that the computer will not negate the newly acquired gains in economy and power range. However, problem number one is not really a problem.
The computer will think the sensor is damaged, because it reads high all the time, and will ignore its data. These are rarer and generally more expensive. There are a couple different styles of MAF sensors that have been employed over the years.
I’ve given a specific spec for the timer. First of all, when I built one of those a few years ago, I used all 10 outputs from the bargraph, and then was able to make smaller increments between switch positions.